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Thread: Official SSCLCG setup thread

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Old 07-25-2011, 10:00 AM   #1
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Default Official SSCLCG setup thread

Since you guys are getting these ssclcg chassis in your hands, here is the proper order that you need to set it up to maximize it's handling on raceday so that you can take home those trophies.
This will help keep you from chasing your tail trying to find the perfect setup. The top pros set their vehicles up in this order.

#1 Balance the chassis. If you don't have scales, use a string tied to the centers of your bumpers and hang it from the middle(for left/right balance). Find and mark the center point of the chassis by measuring from front axle to rear axle. Place chassis on a piece of round pipe and balance it front to rear. It should balance as close to the centerpoint as possible, with it having a very slight rear weight bias. Mine balanced about 1/8" behind center.
It is important to balance the chassis both front to rear and left to right with battery and all electronics installed. Try to mount your receiver next to your esc to add weight to the right front of chassis.

#2 Balance your shock springs to your chassis WITHOUT OIL (without pistons preferred) at ride height. Make sure there is zero binding anywhere in the suspension or you'll be spinning your wheels here.
All other suspension adjustments hinge around this! DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!

#3 adjust your shock oil/pistons to the type of terrain you're running on.
Once you get your suspension to handle the bumps properly, then you can move on to how it handles in the turns.

#4 Choose the right tires for your track

#5 Adjust your camberlinks and camber/toe. I suggest starting with the Traxxas "slayden" setup as a baseline setup. you will be tuning with these instead of moving shock locations around.

#6 Adjust swaybars as necessary.

#7 adjust your diff fluids as necessary.

Refer to this link for details on each step.http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html


Here is an excellent setup "baseline" for the ssclcg kit, but it will change according to track conditions and driver preference. mount battery where front of batt is about half way up the front mounting block slot. and mount as much of your electronics on the right side as possible instead of up on the centerbrace. This will get you near perfect left/right/front/rear balance and a lower cg.

A good baseline diff setup is 20k/50k/10k

Set camber at -1.5 degrees on all 4 wheels with 1-2 degrees toe out depending on how much turn in you want. (always re adjust camber after each link adjustment)

Set ride height with axles level front and rear. (approx 7/8" to 1 1/8" ground to pan)

Camberlink base setup...refer to "Slayden setup" This will change upon track conditions and tire choice.

Last edited by nytryder; 08-01-2011 at 02:43 PM.
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:54 AM   #2
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Very nice guideline!

I never heard of balancing the springs, but I will start with that step and work on my suspension from there as you suggest.

The whole roll center concept, though, is very hard for me to understand. I will keep a close watch on this thread to learn more.

Thanks!
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Old 07-25-2011, 12:59 PM   #3
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Forget about the roll center concept for now and get the chassis and springs balanced/tuned. You're still a couple steps away from that. Just stick to the process, one step at a time. You WILL be rewarded.

My truck had some handling issues that were caused by my springs being out of balance front to rear. I was then doing band-aid upon band-aid to try and fix it. It worked pretty good, but nothing like it does now. I couldn't see how bad it was until I drained all the shock oils and bounced it up and down on the bench. Once I found the right spring balance, I then was able to (step by step) work out the other handling issues fairly easily because I knew where to go next.

Start your spring balancing with the 4 shocks in the middle upper holes and lowers 2nd hole in from the outermost setting.
Since the ssclcg chassis is near 50/50 weight balance, your spring rates front to rear will be within one rate of each other, but start with the same rate springs front and rear. Once you get the springs to ocillate at very close to the same rate, you will then tune them perfectly by moving the shock mounting positions in or out to get it perfect.
I ended up going one rate softer in the rear with the rear lowers all the way out, and the front shock top getting moved to the innermost hole. Your results will be different and you will be surprised at how much little changes in shock position can make a difference.
When you finally do get to camberlink adjustments, it will surprise you how much moving one hole can change your handling too.

Last edited by nytryder; 07-25-2011 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 07-25-2011, 07:33 PM   #4
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Can I assume that these exact rules apply for 2WD SC also? I've got 2WD LCG Slashes I'd like to set up properly as well.
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Old 07-25-2011, 08:25 PM   #5
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Yes! Only you won't set it up with 50/50 weight distribution like the 4x4. You will have to compromise between balance and rear wheel traction since it's a rear motor design. remember when you balance it, use the battery that you're going to mainly run/race with. If you move the battery location or use a lighter or heavier battery, you will have to re-balance your springs all over. I used lead weights to get more weight up front on mine and have the battery(8000mah venom) forward. Some like the battery all the way back, so it's personal preference and driving style here.
Once you have that figured out, then you do the shock spring balancing.

I also have a strc/rustler lcg /protrac slash 2wd. I have it set up with slash big bores with losi blue 2.5's in the rear and losi silver 2.0's up front. I also run the rpm 2 stage purple pistons and it works really good, but i want to try firmer springs for my indoor track, so time to re-sync springs again.
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Old 07-27-2011, 08:21 AM   #6
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I went to the track Saturday, and the truck was working perfect until I got t-boned by one truck(which broke my steering link and front driveshaft) and got rammed from behind at the end of the day.
Yesterday at the track, I thought i had it all fixed and when I started running around the track, it felt like the rear end was off balance. It just felt loose and I couldn't figure out what the issue was. There were a couple fast guys there running their losi's that I could normally keep up with, but I couldn't because my truck wasn't manageble at high speed.
I get home last night and decide to go through the whole truck including re-balancing my springs(without oil) and I couldn't get it to balance at all.
After about an hour in frustration, I looked the chassis over once more, and noticed that the rear inner camberlinks were pushed off the balls and binding against the washers. I popped the link ends back on the balls and binding was gone.
The springs were still balanced from before, but the link ends binding caused the truck to handle poorly.

Anyway, the point of all this is when doing your suspension/spring balancing, make sure there is no binding in your suspension, or it'll be a frustrating experience.

Last edited by nytryder; 07-27-2011 at 08:25 AM.
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:40 AM   #7
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That makes perfect sense. Any binding would lower the frequency response of the suspension and lead right to poor handling. I'll look out for that, thanks!
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Old 07-27-2011, 09:36 PM   #8
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hope this doesn't sound stupid,but what do u mean balance the springs to the chassis ? can you explain
Duh if i could read i would have seen the refer to this text !!!!!! Thanks for info, sorry for question

Last edited by tobyjarett; 07-27-2011 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 07-28-2011, 08:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tobyjarett View Post
hope this doesn't sound stupid,but what do u mean balance the springs to the chassis ? can you explain
Duh if i could read i would have seen the refer to this text !!!!!! Thanks for info, sorry for question

No worries, just highlited it in yellow, so people won't miss that part.

Feel free to ask questions, either here, or by pm.. there is alot of info to digest, especially when you get to adjusting your camberlinks. This thread is for helping all ssclcg owners get the most out of their race toys. Last thing we want is for you to get discouraged and then shortcut your setup with poor results.


The important thing here is learning the order of setup, and how each adjustment affects handling.
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Old 07-29-2011, 07:38 PM   #10
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Refer to this link for details on each step.http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html

this is the second time this week i have seen this thread on rc tech referred to and i have read through a lot of it and it is very informative. this way of setting the trucks or anything else for that matter seems to be the best way i have seen to do it and utilize all aspects of design and get the most out of the vehicle. i will be going after this way of setting my truck up once i get my hands on some better shocks. gonna try out the losi scte shocks and see what happens. any imput on that would be great.
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:38 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nytryder View Post
A good baseline diff setup is 20k/50k/10k
is there a certain brand that you reccomend? i am using ofna and mixing to get my weights. i know this is inconsistent, but my only choice due to current availability.
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:07 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rex cars View Post
is there a certain brand that you reccomend? i am using ofna and mixing to get my weights. i know this is inconsistent, but my only choice due to current availability.
i just got losi in those weights off "hopmeup" on ebay super cheap prices and fast shipper
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Old 07-31-2011, 05:23 PM   #13
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I have been using Losi. That's what my lhs carries. I'm sure that ofna oil is pretty close in comparison.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:58 AM   #14
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Got to drive the SSC Slash 4x4 Demo truck for a 2nd raceday (this time at my local track yesterday in soft groomed clay) and must say these 4-long Platinum 'big-bore' aluminum shocks are growing on me. With -20% (orange/red) springs up front and -10% (green) in the back it just dances over everything thrown at it (with 55-weight oil and some spacing). Their return rates are so much faster than the 12mm blue losi shocks and their ability to smoothly aborb impacts maintains more tire contact with the ground to not skip a beat. I believe they are the perfect proportion for this truck's size/weight.

Sometimes less is more....
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Old 08-01-2011, 11:25 AM   #15
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Agreed. The whole point is to get these chassis handling great. Putting aside preconcieved ideas and sticking to a proven system helps ALOT. Copying others setup sheets and not really knowing what each part of the suspensions adjustments are for will only get you so far.

As far as shocks go... I think the tiNi shafts help with the smoothness of the shock action. Also, the type of shaft seals can make a difference too. Nothing wrong with the stock bigbores. If mine didn't have so many issues with leaking, i would still be running them. I don't think my d8's perform any better shock action wise, but they are much more durable and haven't given me any problems.

Last edited by nytryder; 08-01-2011 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 08-01-2011, 12:58 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSC View Post
Their return rates are so much faster than the 12mm blue losi shocks and their ability to smoothly aborb impacts maintains more tire contact with the ground to not skip a beat.
Did you run different pistons in yours? I just had my LHS order some up (hopefully they can get them without much trouble) because I installed my TEN-T's Friday night and they were terrible. I was going to drill them out tonight but then decided to order the piston set instead.
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Old 08-01-2011, 02:38 PM   #17
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If you want really fast return rate(rebound) try the rpm 2 stage pistons.
Greens or purples will get you in the 35-50 wt oil range. You'll have to sand them down to fit the bigbores though.
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Old 08-09-2011, 10:29 AM   #18
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Alrighty gents, a lot of progress has been made, however I'm still looking for more rear bite. I ended up gaining a whole lap with the removal of the rear sway part, but if I'm not careful on the throttle, it still wants to whip around like a 2wd.

I balanced my springs and now with my Losi TEN shocks, I am running Black springs up front, silver in the rear, 30wt front, 22.5wt rear. It feels really good but the second it starts to get a little outta shape, it goes for a ride.

I still have some steering slop and recenter just isn't working out, but I'll address that later. I have read it actually might be an issue with my radio as some others are complaining about that with theirs, so I might end up picking up something new I guess.
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Old 08-09-2011, 01:31 PM   #19
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cha0tik,

Sorry if I missed it, but what are you running for diff oil, front center and rear?
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Old 08-09-2011, 03:06 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kazuaki View Post
cha0tik,

sorry if i missed it, but what are you running for diff oil, front center and rear?
20/50/7
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