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Thread: D8 shocks on a slash 4x4 definitive tutorial!!!

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Old 10-11-2010, 10:52 AM   #1
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Default D8 shocks on a slash 4x4 definitive tutorial!!!

Ok, I'm going to go through this one more time for everybody. Mods, please sticky this so I don't have to go through 5 pm's a day asking the same questions.

This thread will detail how to get the D8 big bore shocks to fit EXACTLY right on your slash 4x4 with perfect bump and droop for use in all stock mounting positions with no mods to your truck.

Parts you will need:
4 D8 shocks. D8 shocks are the same length front and rear, 97 mm. You can get complete sets of 4 off of ebay for 50$

2 d8T shock ends
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ng-Shock-End-4

2 kyosho big bore spring retainers, they are found on this tree of parts
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...hock-End-Set-4

one extra pair of HB grey springs

Thats it, nothing else needed.


For the rear, build the D8 shocks normally, but use the longer D8T rod ends. Use the medium pistons, and 32.5 wt losi shock oil with HB grey springs. The longer rod ends will get the length right to where your stock shocks were, and bump will be about 5mm past the chassis bottoming.....perfect. I ran the middle hole in the tower, and second hole from the hubs in the arms.

For the front, a little more tweaking is required

First, take the short rod ends that come with the D8 shocks, find a matching drill bit to the hole in the rod end, and extend the hole all the way to the ball pivot. Clean out any flanging the drilling has caused. Then, trim ~3/16" off the top of the rod end. You will be left with a real short and stubby rod end, but because you extended the hole, the same amount of thread will be retaining it to the shock shaft. Thread onto the shock shaft until the shock shaft is ready to bind on the pivot ball. Install the pivot ball.

Now, because you essentially shortened the shock length, the spring will be a little too stiff to get your ride height right, so thats where the kyosho spring retainer comes into play. It allows the spring to sit lower and reduce preload. Build the shock with the medium pistons, 35wt losi oil, grey springs, and the kyosho retainers. Middle hole in the shock tower, stock hole in the lower arm. You will know you've done it right when the shock clears everything just fine, and you again have about 5mm of travel past the chassis being bottomed out.

If you cannot get the ride height low enough with the new shocks, it's because the springs are not broken in. You can either run the truck and wait, or take the springs and compress them fully in your hand a few dozen times...they will eventually take a set and be fine. I always ran my front arms just below level, and the rears level.

Now, there's only one issue left, attaching the shocks to the shock towers. If you have the platinum edition, your truck came with a plastic tree of miscelaneous parts. On that tree, are the plastic standoff/shims for use with the plastic traxxas shocks. Those will slide right inside the plastic eyelet bushings the D8 shocks have. Easy as pie. Use a longer m3 screw, and washers to get stuff spaced out right, and use a washer on the end as a shock retainer. I always did the same on the lower mounts as well....run a washer behind and in front of the pivot ball to retain the rod end if it popped off the pivot ball.

Yes, this settup is compatible with the Tekno cvd's. The above shock settings are what I used to win the outdoor State Championship this summer.

Remember, 75% of your suspension issues will be caused by dirt, and binding of your suspension. Always make sure your arms swing freely with no shocks attached, make sure whatever driveshafts you are using telescope freely. And, make sure the shocks you just installed swing freely on their mounts...if they don't, shim accordingly. The above settup should be a great starting point for about any track, and function far better than the proline shocks or stock big bores.

Sorry, I don't have any pics. I have since sold the slash and moved on to a much better platform in the Losi Ten-SCT.

Last edited by Dezfan; 10-11-2010 at 03:24 PM.
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Old 10-11-2010, 11:38 AM   #2
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Dude. Great write up. I might even give this a try to see how it changes the handling over my Proline setup, which is pretty darn good. Sounds promising.
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Old 10-13-2010, 07:19 AM   #3
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Thanks for this mate,


I have all the parts sitting here waiting to be built (from researching your previous threads)! Will be adding to a still in the box PE slash, and using the big bores on my 2wd mod!

I will post pics when i get round to building and installing them!

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Old 10-13-2010, 08:47 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stalin View Post
Thanks for this mate,


I have all the parts sitting here waiting to be built (from researching your previous threads)! Will be adding to a still in the box PE slash, and using the big bores on my 2wd mod!

I will post pics when i get round to building and installing them!

I never did take any close up pictures of the settup on my truck, but I do have a few vids of it in action. Here's one of the State series races I won with it on a rough outdoor track. It's the truck thats in the lead for the whole race ;)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejOo0n14JPY
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:03 PM   #5
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Does anyone know the dimensions of the d8t shock ends?I have several brands that i can get local that look similar but i will have to order the d8t ones.I cant get the d8t ones in time for a race.If i knew how long the d8t ones were i could get another brand.
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:50 PM   #6
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I went ahead and ordered all that's needed to try the D8 shocks. I wanna see how they compare to my Powerstrokes. Too bad racing at my local track is done for the season.
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redron123 View Post
Does anyone know the dimensions of the d8t shock ends?I have several brands that i can get local that look similar but i will have to order the d8t ones.I cant get the d8t ones in time for a race.If i knew how long the d8t ones were i could get another brand.
25mm end to end!
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:13 PM   #8
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Whats a thread without pics, will add more as i build, will also compare to traxxas big bores, and show fitment pics.

here are all the parts, just waiting for some 35wt.

Click the image to open in full size.

I bought my D8 Shocks on Ebay from OZ-RC for $50-60 dollars. Highly recommend OZ-RC, good service and fast delivery.

I also extracted the pages from the D8 manual on how to build the shocks, the whole document was 45mb, so i extracted the two pages we needed and it is now 2.5mb or so.

So here is the D8 Shock Assembly Instructions (.pdf, 2.5mb)

Will update again soon.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:55 PM   #9
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I ended up not being able to get the d8t shock ends for the rear shocks in time.I did however match up some ofna shock ends that were pretty close.They were about 1mm shorter than the d8t ends. I raced 4 heats and two A mains with them with plenty of crashes due to some crazy drivers and they are holding up awesome.If you cant get the d8t ends and can get ofna ones the part number is 36700 .There were about 8 pieces for 6.29.I also ended up using the stand offs that someone told me to buy that i didnt think i would use.I cut them down where it acted like an insert with a washer on top and ran a bolt all the way through with washer in back to shim out on the front shocks.The top hole in shock was just so big even with the plastic insert that came with my shocks.I will try and post some pics of the stand offs cut down when i tear my truck down to prep for next race.I love these shocks on the slash and am now looking for another set for my other truck.They are so plush and make it easier to drive.

Last edited by Redron123; 10-17-2010 at 07:57 PM.
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Old 10-18-2010, 12:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redron123 View Post
I love these shocks on the slash and am now looking for another set for my other truck.They are so plush and make it easier to drive.

Sounds wicked!

here are some pics from socal rc forums,

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-18-2010, 07:53 PM   #11
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I received the rest of the parts to build these things in the mail today. Only change I made was to use the Kyosho spring seat in the rear as well as the front. Allowed me to get a lower ride height in the back.

I'm pretty impressed at how well these fit using blackdragon's how-to. Ride height is perfect for my track. Can't wait to try it out with these.

I had a very soft setup on my Prolines, which required a lot of preload to keep the ride height decent. At full compression the front shocks almost get coil bind on the springs from all the preload. This setup feels just as soft, but without all that preload. Should handle my rough local track well...

Truck has a Castle 2650kv motor and a Venom 50c 5600mah pack under the cover if anybody is wondering about weight.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 10-18-2010, 10:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbowop View Post
I received the rest of the parts to build these things in the mail today. Only change I made was to use the Kyosho spring seat in the rear as well as the front. Allowed me to get a lower ride height in the back.

I'm pretty impressed at how well these fit using blackdragon's how-to. Ride height is perfect for my track. Can't wait to try it out with these.

I had a very soft setup on my Prolines, which required a lot of preload to keep the ride height decent. At full compression the front shocks almost get coil bind on the springs from all the preload. This setup feels just as soft, but without all that preload. Should handle my rough local track well...

Truck has a Castle 2650kv motor and a Venom 50c 5600mah pack under the cover if anybody is wondering about weight.
Did ya have any doubts man...I do things top notch!!

The springs will break in a little so you can go back to the HB retainers in the rear and get your ride height where you want it. Same with the front, you'll need to crank the collars down some after a few runs as the springs take a set. I generally try to do most of it by hand by manipulating the springs with my fingers when I'm watching sports center, lol, usually gets springs where they are just about done breaking in before I ever actually use them. Looks good man and good luck at the track!!!

Also, what lower hole do you have the rear shocks in? I used the second hole in from the rear hubs....yours looks closer to the chassis than that. If you change holes from my settup, it's quite possible you will want to change the shock oil as well.

Last edited by BlackDragon; 10-18-2010 at 10:48 PM.
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Old 10-18-2010, 11:37 PM   #13
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I used the third hole in. And on the upper mounts I used the outer hole. I also started out with 40wt oil, but I'll adjust depending on how it does at the track. Just dropping it from the air it feels like I need to lighten it up to about 35wt.

I did compress the springs quite a bit over the weekend actually since I got the shocks last Friday. I had to wait until the rest of the parts arrived today to build them.

Last edited by turbowop; 10-18-2010 at 11:39 PM.
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:28 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbowop View Post
I used the third hole in. And on the upper mounts I used the outer hole. I also started out with 40wt oil, but I'll adjust depending on how it does at the track. Just dropping it from the air it feels like I need to lighten it up to about 35wt.

I did compress the springs quite a bit over the weekend actually since I got the shocks last Friday. I had to wait until the rest of the parts arrived today to build them.
Yeah, 35 weight would likely be about right in those mounting locations.
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Old 10-25-2010, 09:57 PM   #15
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can i use the vorza shocks set or even the team O'Donnell zo1b shocks set with out using a shock adapter
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:19 PM   #16
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can i use the vorza shocks set or even the team O'Donnell zo1b shocks set with out using a shock adapter
I think I've heard of people using the vorza's. Stick to fronts if you head that route.
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Old 10-25-2010, 10:23 PM   #17
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I think I've heard of people using the vorza's. Stick to fronts if you head that route.
ok the only reason i said the odonnell shocks is cause you can get them cheaper then the hpi stuff
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Old 10-26-2010, 08:46 AM   #18
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ok the only reason i said the odonnell shocks is cause you can get them cheaper then the hpi stuff
well, as has been said, you can find the d8's for less than a set of prolines. You just need to search. If the odonnell ones need any extra parts to make work, then you're tacking on costs. Nobody will know if they work or not unless they try them. Same thing probably happened w/ the d8s and now look at it. WE GOT STICKIES N SHIT!!!
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Old 10-26-2010, 02:12 PM   #19
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I haven't been able to find any D8 shocks for sale
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Old 10-26-2010, 05:44 PM   #20
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I picked mine up brand new on Ebay for around $65 shipped. Just wait until they pop up.
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