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Old 12-09-2009, 04:08 PM   #1
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Default SC10 suspension set up???

I was looking for some advice on what suspension setting(camber/caster/etc) others have used with success. Thanks for any help you can give me.

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Old 12-09-2009, 04:13 PM   #2
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everyones setup will be different depending on track surface etc.
go to RC10.com and view the factory setup sheets find a track
that is similar to what you are running and use that for a start.
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Old 12-10-2009, 10:34 PM   #3
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i am running the scott brown setup for pensylvania. works pretty good. better than what i had previously. only made one small change for our track. just had to shorten the reak links for a bit less body roll. works real good.
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Old 12-10-2009, 11:15 PM   #4
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All stock setup from the manual , except 45wt in rear, lead to equal out ESC vs Rx weight(side to side) and batt foam
cut in half works great for everything I'm doing.
I just drive through the rest.


On another note, just re-setting all my camber/toe and steering links to length with a pair of calipers made a big difference.
They were all over the place.
AE's link assembler must've been high that day

Last edited by MAB; 12-11-2009 at 06:42 AM.
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Old 12-11-2009, 06:54 PM   #5
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Yeah, I'm pretty close to stock RTR set-up for now, as far as hole placement goes anyway... just lengthened the rear camber link, and -1 camber all the way around, and lowered a few mm over all.
Currently have Gold springs up front and Silver in back with threaded shock bodies and alu. caps and 30wt fluid. Will do another rebuild in the next week or so with the VCS2 kit and try 40wt up front and 25wt out back.

I also cut my battery foam and slid mine back as far as the stock hold-down would allow, have my ESC behind the battery and placed spektrum rx on servo.


Want to give 1deg. rear toe a try. I have the losi carriers and pins on the way.

Also have the 30deg. caster blocks to experiment with, as well as the rear sway-bar kit for if I run on some very smooth tracks.
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Old 12-11-2009, 10:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShredSled View Post
Yeah, I'm pretty close to stock RTR set-up for now, as far as hole placement goes anyway... just lengthened the rear camber link, and -1 camber all the way around, and lowered a few mm over all.
Currently have Gold springs up front and Silver in back with threaded shock bodies and alu. caps and 30wt fluid. Will do another rebuild in the next week or so with the VCS2 kit and try 40wt up front and 25wt out back.

I also cut my battery foam and slid mine back as far as the stock hold-down would allow, have my ESC behind the battery and placed spektrum rx on servo.


Want to give 1deg. rear toe a try. I have the losi carriers and pins on the way.

Also have the 30deg. caster blocks to experiment with, as well as the rear sway-bar kit for if I run on some very smooth tracks.
1. 25wt is way too light for these sorta heavy trucks, use 30wt. green springs in back.
2. 30` caster blocks are going to take some of the steering away. its a good thing since these have way too much steering anyhow.

3.40wt and gold springs are the shiznit up front. takes some of the snappyness outa the steering.

5. dont even bother with the swaybar, its more for the t4 anyway. these things are tankslappin happy anyhow. (loose) i tried the swaybar on a smooth high traction track and it just made it looser.

6. you will like the 1` extra of toe in the rear. makes the truck plant coming out of the turns. was a great improvement for mine.

hope this helps. The Dragon
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Old 12-11-2009, 10:52 PM   #7
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btw, almost forgot. its spendy but worth it. get the factory team carbon battery strap. its $25 but then you can move the battery all the way back or just about anywhere in between.
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonracing View Post
1. 25wt is way too light for these sorta heavy trucks, use 30wt. green springs in back.
2. 30` caster blocks are going to take some of the steering away. its a good thing since these have way too much steering anyhow.

3.40wt and gold springs are the shiznit up front. takes some of the snappyness outa the steering.

5. dont even bother with the swaybar, its more for the t4 anyway. these things are tankslappin happy anyhow. (loose) i tried the swaybar on a smooth high traction track and it just made it looser.

6. you will like the 1` extra of toe in the rear. makes the truck plant coming out of the turns. was a great improvement for mine.

hope this helps. The Dragon

yeah, thanks for the tips, any input based on experience from others is exactly why I joined forums like this.

Isn't green spring/30wt. stock out back for the RTR's?
It seemed like I was running so much preload on those green springs!! I kind of like my silver springs so far, which are still pre-loaded a decent amount, and my ride height right now seems to be way lower than most other SC10s I see. Maybe the silvers are working for me since I moved my battery back, and also moved the ESC further back in the center there?

I'll have to pick up some 30wt fluid just to experiment, maybe 35, all I have is 40 or 25... I don't know, maybe 40 out back with the silver springs then? Or maybe a bit over-damped?


I've already got the Sway bar kit sitting here, so I might as well give it a try just to see what the difference is in person, even though I know not to expect any sort of magic... Have heard many say the same as you, but there is one track in particular here that we go to, esp. in winter, that my buddy always uses his sway bar for and really likes it, so I don't know.


Oh, one more thing I just thought about, anyone here have experience with the inline axles? I'm a bit skeptical about it, but I see so many people with the Blitz's all swapping out to them.


Another thing, what about wheelbase, what is everyone here running? I'm still set-up in the middle.
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Old 12-14-2009, 12:52 AM   #9
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I have been racing the sc10 since last may and have raced on all kinds of surfaces. My set up for loose big tracks is 35w shk on all four ,silver springs,STRC 1 degree rear hubs,long wheel base,30 degree caster blocks up front,and electronics novak gtb-10.5 motor,and last proline calibers w/aka firm foams! Short really high bite clay track-25w front,30w rear,short wheel base ,proline bowties aka foams or slicks,everthing else is the same! I have done very well with these set ups ! I race every weekend w/these set ups !! Hope this helps !!!
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Old 12-14-2009, 04:05 PM   #10
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Im running

Front: Silver springs with 35 wt oil
Rear: gold springs with 40 wt oil


This setup lets me slide around corners very fast without flipping the truck

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Old 12-16-2009, 09:44 AM   #11
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I am running 27.5 wt in the front with blue springs and then 30 wt in the back with green springs. #3 piston all away around. Short wheelbase. Its a high grip track and use J Concepts Goosebump tires.

But remember I am still new and figuring this whole thing out so dont use my setup.. However it did fel good to me.

The battery is back about 1 inch and I added 1 OZ of weight next to the rear shock tower.
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Old 12-17-2009, 05:04 PM   #12
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#3 pistons all 4
Green rear
Gold front
1.5 losi rear hub
30 degree hubs front
inline axles front / Require inline setup
front 35wt rear 45wt
24/75 17.5 turn ballistic motor
gorilla snawt in diff
Goose bumps/aka foam med
Ft battery strap give battery placement options wich help greatly
The losi rear hub is a bit of work but works well keeps back end straight!

Ive done pretty well at the track!

Last edited by mrkdubaya; 12-17-2009 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 12-17-2009, 05:13 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrkdubaya View Post
#3 pistons all 4
Green rear
Gold front
1.5 losi rear hub
30 degree hubs front
inline axles front / Require inline setup
front 35wt rear 45wt
24/75 17.5 turn ballistic motor
Goose bumps/aka foam med
Ft battery strap give battery placement options wich help greatly
The losi rear hub is a bit of work but works well keeps back end straight!

Ive done pretty well at the track!

Gotta ask, how do you like the inline axles on the SC10? That's something I've wondered a bit about recently but havent' personally come accross many people running them on the AE's, but much more so on the Blitz's.

And also, how are they in combination with the 30deg. caster blocks?
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Old 12-17-2009, 05:16 PM   #14
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Kinda glitchy on the straights but has bite in the turns!
Get the v3 proline foams med / garilla snawt in the diff trust me!
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:36 AM   #15
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Default Updated Setup

Ok so I had another 6 hours of practice in yesterday. I even had a couple of mugh higher level and more experienced drives take the truck out and had good things to say.

High Grip clay track.

Rear:
30wt rear, green springs, #3 piston, moderate preload
Top shock mount middle, bottom shock mount outside
camber 2 degree
camber rods farthest holes out.

Front:
27.5 wt front, blue springs, one small spacer for preload
camber 1 degree
camber rod position middle spot
top shock mount outside
bottom shock mount inside


1 OZ weight next to the shock tower under the foam pad for battery.
Battery placement is about .5 inches back

jconcepts tires goosebumps, ball diff

Motor: Tekin redline 17.5 10 degree, with cheat mode at 22 degree
25 tooth pinion, 78 spur
10% punch control
10% drag brake
motor temp 115 degree


My review.... I love how it handled, I played with the battery position all the way up fron t and then all the way back and decided that the middle was the best mainly because I needed tad more front end steering coming out of the corners without losing rear end weight for traction. Then I changed the front shock tower positions to be more responsive off throttle. I did adjust the front toe in to about 1.5 or 2 degrees

After all this by the time at 12:AM I was doing quite well and they guy at the track made a comment that I was no longer classified as a rookie driver....lol I have only had the truck out twice!

Granit... I love this stuff so much I am researching the snot out of it... Even took my laptop out to tweak the settings.

27 tooth pinion and 78 spur was too hot to run for the truck and really didnt gain that much to warrent the change.

Before I got out next I will only rebuild the front shocks and place a 77 tooth spur on it. I have been thinking about more rear toe in.

Once I learn how to drive better I might free up the front toe in.

Thoughts on my setup? My only issue is that I might not have the power as some other trucks which baffles me because I have 40C batteries, Tekin Redline 17.5 and (I think) proper gearing.

Any help on how to get a little more speed. Need a tad more take off and top end to be honest.?????

I thought about another motor and maybee changing the start power on the mamba max pro to med.

I am not sure the 22 degree timing boost is correct either. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
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Old 12-19-2009, 09:44 AM   #16
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Default Pictures of the truck

Dont laugh at the paint. It was an idea gone wrong and I tried to fix. Lets just say it was the first body I have ever painted!

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Click the image to open in full size.



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Old 12-19-2009, 10:12 AM   #17
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I have a setup sheet filled out If anyone is intrested in seeing it just email me and I will email it to them. Its in adope so i cant post it here. Since useing this setup i have Tq'd and won everytime the truck has been put on the track! last time i won by 2 laps.

my email is Bigrob21@gmail.com
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