front rims!!!!!!!!!

[crfrider250]

why is it so hard to find front rims for the sc10?!?!?!?!
if anyone finds and good looking black rims for the FRONT of the 2wd please post it here!

[Carpet Racer]

They are all the same offset. Depends on If you have wheel hexes or stock pins.

[crfrider250]

its stock but there isnt even pins!
its just all round inside the wheels i have now

[Outkast187]

I have never had an issue finding them....at least 5 different ones to choose from that I know of.
PL beadlock
PL split six
jconcepts rulux
jconcepts hazzard
aka

there are also two more which I cant remember the name of...

[Nismomike]

Proline is no longer manufacturing the outboard bearing style front SC10 wheels or the drive pin style rear wheels. Some of the vendors like amain and tower still have them, but thats the last of them. They are only going to make the ProTrak offset hex wheels that are used with the RS or hex conversion kit.

[crfrider250]

i have rulux ones right now and they are ugly as hell!
i absolutely hate them!
and i dont want to buy beadlocks yet but i wanted split six and i couldnt find them!

[Terra Rover]

Contact Average Joe's. He has some SC10 front wheels in stock. I think he even has AKA's mounted SC10 fronts in stock. Their TN is 1 905 380 3209

[1crawlin]

D E racing also makes wheels for the non wheel hex trucks i have a set. they are a little thicker than the rulex wheels. i think the hazard wheels only come in 12 mm hex.

[crfrider250]

can i get the link for D E racing?

[Sliding_Fox]

I'd go ahead and switch to the 12mm hex conversion. I had the same Front Bearings, and Rear Pin Drive wheels. I ran Proline Split Six Beadlocks.

A few notes: Beadlocks are WAY heavier, so you have to gear much lower, I had to run 22/87 to keep the 17.5T motor around 160 degrees F. Now I have switched to 12mm hex Jconcept Hazards... my gearing is now a 26/78 and my temps are right around 120 degrees F. That's running on a 8.4V NiMH pack.

The other perk to the 12mm hex is you don't have to buy wheels specifically for Front or Rear, which reduces the amount of tires you might have to purchase. I rotate the tires around depending on track conditions etc, so the hex makes it cheeper and easier.

Also the pin drive strips out pretty easily, buying an obsolete wheel is throwing away money, when you convert all your old wheels will be useless. best to go ahead and convert.

Last note, is the AE 12mm hexs tend to get stuck in my wheels when I remove them. I heard Proline hexs don't have this issue. Jconcepts also make hexes which I'm ordering, which have locknuts on them. i like this option best, but that's me. (it's what my Yokomo MR4TC had and I perfer having the locknuts). hope that helps.

[1crawlin]

DE Racing Trinidad SC Rear Wheels (Black) (2) (SC10) [DER-SCT-ARB] | RC Cars & Trucks - A Main Hobbies
DE Racing Trinidad SC Front Wheels (Black) (2) (SC10) [DER-SCT-AFB] | RC Cars & Trucks - A Main Hobbies
heres a link for the black ones they have more colors. as for stripping out the rear wheels i am still running the wheels that came with my kit with the 3rd set of tires on them. hope the link helps

[crfrider250]

Originally Posted by Sliding_Fox

I'd go ahead and switch to the 12mm hex conversion. I had the same Front Bearings, and Rear Pin Drive wheels. I ran Proline Split Six Beadlocks.

A few notes: Beadlocks are WAY heavier, so you have to gear much lower, I had to run 22/87 to keep the 17.5T motor around 160 degrees F. Now I have switched to 12mm hex Jconcept Hazards... my gearing is now a 26/78 and my temps are right around 120 degrees F. That's running on a 8.4V NiMH pack.

The other perk to the 12mm hex is you don't have to buy wheels specifically for Front or Rear, which reduces the amount of tires you might have to purchase. I rotate the tires around depending on track conditions etc, so the hex makes it cheeper and easier.

Also the pin drive strips out pretty easily, buying an obsolete wheel is throwing away money, when you convert all your old wheels will be useless. best to go ahead and convert.

Last note, is the AE 12mm hexs tend to get stuck in my wheels when I remove them. I heard Proline hexs don't have this issue. Jconcepts also make hexes which I'm ordering, which have locknuts on them. i like this option best, but that's me. (it's what my Yokomo MR4TC had and I perfer having the locknuts). hope that helps.

im definately staying away from beadlocks because they are heavy and really only come in one style.
i want to convert because i already have the hexes for the front from when i converted the back and i dont know how much i need to change to get them working on there

[Sliding_Fox]

The front conversion is really easy, the only parts you need to purchase are:

-Team Associated Hex Front Axle Set [ASC9883]
-Team Associated Hex Steering Block Set [ASC9880]
-Team Associated 4-40 Aluminum Locknut [ASC4449]

you'll use the bearings out of the front wheels, go ahead and clean them while you have them out. I use PB Penetrating oil. it cleans and lubricates. I use it on my skate bearings as well, haven't found anything that works better. The whole front hex conversion (will be around $13) since you have the front hexes, and it's a quick change.

[crfrider250]

alright thanks!

[audiostylz]

Originally Posted by crfrider250

i have rulux ones right now and they are ugly as hell!
i absolutely hate them!
and i dont want to buy beadlocks yet but i wanted split six and i couldnt find them!

I heard the split 6 bead locks are discontinued. You can still get the lock ring on the outside but that's about it. I have a full set that are practically new that I might be willing to sell if you're still interested in getting a set.

[RattleKan]

Originally Posted by Sliding_Fox

I'd go ahead and switch to the 12mm hex conversion. I had the same Front Bearings, and Rear Pin Drive wheels. I ran Proline Split Six Beadlocks.

A few notes: Beadlocks are WAY heavier, so you have to gear much lower, I had to run 22/87 to keep the 17.5T motor around 160 degrees F. Now I have switched to 12mm hex Jconcept Hazards... my gearing is now a 26/78 and my temps are right around 120 degrees F. That's running on a 8.4V NiMH pack.

The other perk to the 12mm hex is you don't have to buy wheels specifically for Front or Rear, which reduces the amount of tires you might have to purchase. I rotate the tires around depending on track conditions etc, so the hex makes it cheeper and easier.

Also the pin drive strips out pretty easily, buying an obsolete wheel is throwing away money, when you convert all your old wheels will be useless. best to go ahead and convert.

Last note, is the AE 12mm hexs tend to get stuck in my wheels when I remove them. I heard Proline hexs don't have this issue. Jconcepts also make hexes which I'm ordering, which have locknuts on them. i like this option best, but that's me. (it's what my Yokomo MR4TC had and I perfer having the locknuts). hope that helps.

I just put a set of JC locking hex nuts on my slash and they work really good. I also got the JC locking wheel nuts and for them to not be a nylon lock nut style they work awesome. They are really light also and look cool.

[Brent701]

Originally Posted by Sliding_Fox

The front conversion is really easy, the only parts you need to purchase are:

-Team Associated Hex Front Axle Set [ASC9883]
-Team Associated Hex Steering Block Set [ASC9880]
-Team Associated 4-40 Aluminum Locknut [ASC4449]

you'll use the bearings out of the front wheels, go ahead and clean them while you have them out. I use PB Penetrating oil. it cleans and lubricates. I use it on my skate bearings as well, haven't found anything that works better. The whole front hex conversion (will be around $13) since you have the front hexes, and it's a quick change.

Add ASC9881 to that list. Those are the Hex axles. Can't do much of a Hex conversion without the axles.

I would replace ASC9883 with Jconcepts #2134 and #2081

[crfrider250]

Originally Posted by audiostylz

I heard the split 6 bead locks are discontinued. You can still get the lock ring on the outside but that's about it. I have a full set that are practically new that I might be willing to sell if you're still interested in getting a set.

hey can you pm me about the rims?
i think id like to buy them!!

[Sliding_Fox]

Originally Posted by Brent701

Add ASC9881 to that list. Those are the Hex axles. Can't do much of a Hex conversion without the axles.

I would replace ASC9883 with Jconcepts #2134 and #2081

Thanks for adding, I knew I forgot something.

[Sliding_Fox]

Originally Posted by crfrider250

hey can you pm me about the rims?
i think id like to buy them!!

A-Main still have some


Front
Pro-Line Split Six 2.2/3.0 Bead-Loc Wheels (Red/Black) (2) (SC10/Front) [PRO2716-04] | RC Cars & Trucks - A Main Hobbies

Rear
Pro-Line Split Six 2.2/3.0 Bead-Loc Wheels (Red/Black) (2) (SC10/Rear) [PRO2717-04] | RC Cars & Trucks - A Main Hobbies