ULTIMA SC-R Set Up Thread

[Waltermydoinhere]

Painstakingly cut them myself...

Worth it though. It seems to work pretty well.

[SCfan]

thats the new flo-tek, i think most or all the holes come like that, most of the newer body looks like they have vents......

[SCfan]

does the motor centering kit make a difference on the stock G20 motor??....and if so whats the part number? also what springs are on the stock setup, lookin to change for better corning and softer landings,or should it be stiffer and what type of shock oil should i use?? any help would be great!

[rangerjkb]

I had been running the #65 F & R springs on the Truck, but recently switched to F #75/ R #70 and stuck with JT's recommended shock setup. Like this much better and provids predictable stability at higher speeds.

[SCfan]

hey just wondering what are the 3-B pistons that JT is running?? Part number?? thanx

[ChrisAttebery]

I believ that you get one set with the truck and then you need another set like this:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Shock-Pistons

[SCfan]

hey chris u goin to make any kyosho parts?? like front wheel axels?? seems to be a real weak spot.......

[sandsurfer]

Originally Posted by SCfan

hey chris u goin to make any kyosho parts?? like front wheel axels?? seems to be a real weak spot.......

Fastlane makes the axles and they are worth every penny. Have not bent or broke one yet. Lifetime guarantee. http://www.fastlanemachine.net/products.php?cat=Kyosho

[ChrisAttebery]

I don't have any plans to make any Kyosho parts at ths time.

Thanks for the vote of confidence though.

[ChrisAttebery]

I have some questions about my setup. I am running Tebo's setup with the Kyosho aluminum -1 rear hubs. I have been running the ride height at 30mm/29mm. I have also been running without any anti-squat spacers.

The track is fairly short, technical, medium traction, and smooth.

My truck now has good forward traction, but it isn't turning very well. I am using the same tires as the leaders. My diff was pretty stiff when I checked it after the last race, so that is probably part of the problem, but what other steps can I do to decrease the turn radius?

My thoughts are to shorten the rear camber link by one hole and possibly go to a softer front spring.

What would raising the ride height do for me? I notice that most people are running 33/30 or higher.

Thanks,


Chris

[Dancer]

Originally Posted by SCfan

does the motor centering kit make a difference on the stock G20 motor??....and if so whats the part number? also what springs are on the stock setup, lookin to change for better corning and softer landings,or should it be stiffer and what type of shock oil should i use?? any help would be great!

I love the centering kit on mine. The stock setup comes with #65 springs. What kind of track are you running on?

My shock setup is b piston with 35wt/30wt AE oil. When the track is loose I put in the 65 springs. 70 if it is smoother. On the front I use the 70 and 75.

[ChrisAttebery]

I ran my SC-R on NorCal's new indoor layout today. The truck was pretty dialed. I started with Tebo's CRCRC setup then made a few changes:

Panther Raptor SS F/R
70 spring/27.5wt in the front
65 spring/25wt in the rear
1 degree aluminum hubs
Rear camber link outer/front NON SP-2 hole.
Battery forward with the ESC and RX in the back of the tray
2oz on the nose, 3oz in the rear
Running a Fantom 10.5 - 20/81 - SPX lowest timing setting.

I can't wait to race it on Saturday.

[LeftKoast]

Is there a big difference (other than the $) between the sc r and the sc r sp? also, i dont see the tebo set up here and for some reason cant print it on my pc. Can someone post it?

[fayettevilleman27]

Here is my setup.. Completely Dialed this way. I run this setup for low and high traction, dont change anything but tires and its always fast
Front..
30 degree caster w/.5mm spacer
shocks= out up top, middl bottom ( shock mount block to inside on a-arms)
camber link= middle on bulk, inside on C-hubs
(C-hubs to the rear, both spacers up front, its aggressive turning this way so dont turn to early at all or your in the pipe..1.5 neg camber, .5 maybe 1 toe out..Orange springs, arms level, sometimes alittle below if no big jumps, 40wt losi oil
Rear..
Shocks= inside up top, outside on a-arms
Red springs, 35wt losi oil, always below arms level, adjust to traction
Camber link= middle on rear bulk, forward outside hole on 1 degree strc rear hubs, 3mm spacer under that ball stud at rear hub,
1-2 degree camber, adjust to track
use standard RF blocks in truck but add the 1mm spacer in the rear under the far rear toe block, this takes away some of the anti-squat. Makes my truck come out of the curves a whole lot faster without getting loose. the scr has alot of anti-squat at stock build and does not need that much. Since adding the 1mm spacer to the rear, its made me so much faster with my truck.
*The only spacers I have under ball studs on the entire truck are only at the rear 1 degree hubs, 3mm.. No spacers at all on the front under any ball studs.
For tires I like Hot bodies Beams and Pro-line Tazers the most, really impressed by the tazers, they work descent everywhere
3oz weight all the way in the rear behind battery, 3/4 ounce on front bulkhead, 1/2 ounce on each side of chassis alittle more that halfway down the chassis, alittle more to the rear than to the front, (if that makes since)
I might have forgot something, if so just ask