ULTIMA SC-R Set Up Thread

[munsonator008]

Originally Posted by Dancer

okay got my kyosho and am running a lap fast now. Very smooth. Can't wait for kyle to help dial it in further.

Guys can you believe he let me drive his truck and what do I do? Break it, OUCH.

anyway backing up to the guy not running drag brake. For me i run 20%. haven't really played with that for a while but I am telling you it makes all the difference in the world.

Note though that running drag brake usually gets the motor temps to rise a bit so keep and eye on it.

no problem, thats what spare parts are for.

drag brake - I ran around 25% with my Tekin speedo, now with the LRP, im a bit higher, mainly because im running only modified with it. with an 8.5 you really need to have that extra drag when your on high speed straights with sweepers. I dont typically run alot of push brake, just enough to slow the truck down and set up for corners. the biggest thing with these settings is to tune it so the rear tires wont lock up when your braking. when they lock up, thats when the rear end will swing around going into a corner. you dont want to compromise stability for braking.

[SCfan]

i just got the rtr usc, and i am completely new to rc cars, and im just wondering what should i do to help keep the truck straight? When i punch it, it doesnt completely spin out but im fighting it back and forth? Everything is stock, but i want to upgrade little by little, but wondering whats the first more important or most responsive thing to do......thanx

[munsonator008]

First off, if your running the stock tires, that will be the first thing to upgrade.

Other than that, the motor centering kit, SCR slipper, and swing shafts will be key items to upgrade.

[Dancer]

swing shafts? Do you mean the turnbuckles?

[munsonator008]

Originally Posted by Dancer

swing shafts? Do you mean the turnbuckles?

no, swing shafts are the kyosho term for CVD's.

[Waltermydoinhere]

Originally Posted by munsonator008

no, swing shafts are the kyosho term for CVD's.

Here is the motor spacer someone mentioned...It's probably not going to keep you from going back and forth though. It will help keep you 'level' while in flight over larger jumps. Along with this spacer the main shaft I linked directly underneath would be needed as well.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-Motor-Spacer
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ain-Gear-Shaft


You'll definietly want to get some of these as I've broken at least 3 front axles.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-Shaft-Set-2

Your other option would be to order some from FastLanemachine.com <-- They make some pretty stout ones. http://www.fastlanemachine.net/products.php?cat=Kyosho

And finally here are the "Swing Shafts" mentioned...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ng-Shaft-Set-2

There are other websites to get Kyosho parts at, I just listed the easiest to find.

As far as your original problem is concerned, new tires would be my first recommendation, new shock oil, (probably lighter than what you're running, I would suggest 35weight to start).

Also, try loosening the tension on your slip plates (under the cover where your pinion is) and if you feel really ambitious removing, cleaning and replacing diff oil.


Good luck!

[Ghostrider86]

Welp Hotshot RC just opened up 8 miles from my house! Its an indoor carpet offroad track, pretty good size too!

Can't wait to get out there with the SCR and see how my set up is working. We will see if i need to make any changes or if it will do well on carpet!

[ChrisAttebery]

I've been looking at some of the setups listed here and elsewhere on the web for the last couple days. I've noticed that most of you are running more ride height and heavier oil in the front than my truck. My truck came set up with 27.5w in the front with the 75 spring. The ride height was only about 28mm in the front and 26mm in the rear.

The truck seems to have the standard Tebo setup other than a gear diff and stock hubs.

[Ghostrider86]

Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery

I've been looking at some of the setups listed here and elsewhere on the web for the last couple days. I've noticed that most of you are running more ride height and heavier oil in the front than my truck. My truck came set up with 27.5w in the front with the 75 spring. The ride height was only about 28mm in the front and 26mm in the rear.

The truck seems to have the standard Tebo setup other than a gear diff and stock hubs.

My truck front end was bouncing off the ground on the tight indoor track. so i thickened up the oil to compensate.

[ChrisAttebery]

Thanks for the reply Jeff.

I think I'm going to try 32.5 in the front.

[SCfan]

You'll definietly want to get some of these as I've broken at least 3 front axles.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...le-Shaft-Set-2

yea i already broke a rear axle, im going to change them to uni swings shafts soon, but for now ill run stock til i get more time on the track, but in the manual it says to put grease on dog-bone that goes into the axle, what type of grease?? and also how do you change the ride height? i tried the screw on the springs but it doesnt seem the spring pops up to that point, like they have been too compressed, thanx alot

[ChrisAttebery]

Another setup question. My truck seems really low compared to the ride height I've seen listed on the pro's setup sheets. I'm running fairly new Enduros and 75/70 springs. The front and rear ride height were around 28mm. In order to get 34/30mm I would have to screw the collars almost all the way out on the front shocks. Is that how you guys are running them?

Someone on RCTECH suggested that the o-rings in the shocks were swollen up, but the shocks seem free enough to me.

Thanks,


Chris

[kevink]

tonight i'm practicing for the championship, the truck was extemely smooth on the infield but i cannot open it up on the steight it just wants the rear end to catch the front. Im running s 7.5 turned down with a 84/14 gear. I have the rear camber links in the middle hole at the tower and outer hole on the hub and the shocks are inside on top inside on the bottom. The toe-blocks are from strc the RF ones I think I can go one more bigger in the rear with a plastic one, tires are wishbones SS up front and Enduro SS rear stock foams. Anyone got some advice I have 27.5 oil in the rear with the 65 spring. I am planning on adding 3 oz to the rear but other then that what else can I do. Ride height is 34mm rear and 38 in the front- turns awesome.

Also at this ride height it seems really low am I doing something wrong it droops below arms level. You measure at the transmission bottom and under the steering rack in the front right? I have 3 turns out in the rear for droop and 1/2 turn out in the front will changing this help with stability on the streight i'm probably loosing a sec right there.

[ChrisAttebery]

First off, did you try swapping the tires front to rear? I find that most of the time wishbones have more grip than Enduros.

Second, why are your running so much droop in the rear? Every set up I have seen has 3 turns in the FRONT and 1/2 in the rear.

38/34mm is low? Read my post above. Mine was at ~28/26mm before I raised it up.

Adding weight to the rear sounds like a good idea to me.

Are you running Torque Control on your speedo? I'm running about 80% on my Tekin Redline 8.5 RS combo.

[kevink]

the wishbones work but lack the side bite so I went with the enduros for side bite because it has the knobs already sniped. as far as droop i'll double check it but I thought I set it up according to Tebo's maybe I am backwards what does the droop effect?

How do you adjust Torque control is that the current limiter? I brought it to OFF from 76% because the speedo was thermaling not the motor weird right, and after I changed that and went to no boost sensored only I was able to run a full pack through it. I just changed out the capacitor with a radio shack equivlent so maybe the capacitor was bad I dunno. Other then that my gearing is really low so my temps should be way low .

[ChrisAttebery]

I'm running the Tekin RS and you are right its called Current Limiter. It sounds like you have it set about where I have mine. Have you tried gearing up a tooth or two. A 7.5 with a low gear ratio is going to have a ton of torque.

Do you have a higher turn motor your could swap in? Try a 10.5 and see if you can get a more drivable setup with it.

I tried running the Castle 3800 SCT motor in my SC10. I was fighting rear traction issues and did a ton of work to try and get more rear traction. I finally swapped it for a 13.5 and it was like night and day. I'm running an 8.5 now and it is great an days with good traction, but kind of a bear on slippery days.

[kevink]

I have a 13.5 I can try. I will get back after practice and let you guys know what I did and how it reacted. Just wondering about the droop though what that actually effects.

[ChrisAttebery]

My understanding is that limiting droop acts like adding a sway bar. You lose suspension travel, but it helps keep the truck from rolling so much in the corners. Adding droop will allow the tire to drop more and let the truck roll over more. The truck needs to roll over to add weight (traction) to the outside tire, but at some point the outside tire can't support the weight and the truck will slide out.

[Waltermydoinhere]

For those interested...I recently got the new Pro-Line "Flo-Tek" body and tried to mimic the stock paint job. It's next to a stocker for comparison. Below is the result.























The body does seem to reduce the 'parachute' issue. Bought it as an SC and it's been converted to SC-R except I'm keeping the gear diff in it.

[z1nonly]

Looks good. I presume you had to cut out the vent holes? Or did the body come precut?