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Thread: PSI Racing Mid Motor MM2 Short Course Truck Conversion for Academy GV2T 2wd Truck

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Old 01-10-2010, 11:13 AM   #1
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Default PSI Racing Mid Motor MM2 Short Course Truck Conversion for Academy GV2T 2wd Truck

Originally described here:

Team Academy GV2T-SC Conversion

This has been further refined into a mid motor conversion that will be available soon under PSI Racing as the MM2-SCT conversion for the Academy GV2T .

Here are some pics of the vehicle:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Once my conversion comes in I will post lots of pics.

From what I have gotten for info, you will want to use the following items for this:

- Traxxas slash style rear rims
- SC10 style front rims
- SC10 sized bodies

Also, in addition to an Academy GV2T, you will need (will update if there is anything else):

- 1 extra stock gv2 idler gear ( for the counter gear plate)
- 2 5x10 bearings for the counter gear
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Old 01-10-2010, 03:48 PM   #2
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This vehicle based on what I have gathered from the manufacturer of it should met all ROAR specs. I believe this was the main reason initially for the first design using the outer mlp location with SC10 rear wheels. with slash rears, you didn't need to lengthen the CVD bone and still be legal.

I'll confirm for sure however.

There will also be mid motor designs available for the GV2 Buggy and GV2T Truck.
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Old 01-10-2010, 03:57 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
This vehicle based on what I have gathered from the manufacturer of it should met all ROAR specs. I believe this was the main reason initially for the first design using the outer mlp location with SC10 rear wheels. with slash rears, you didn't need to lengthen the CVD bone and still be legal.

I'll confirm for sure however.

There will also be mid motor designs available for the GV2 Buggy and GV2T Truck.
there is always the possibility I could be wrong, has happened before, but having talked to roar on the subject that was my understanding.

good luck
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Old 01-10-2010, 04:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PepsiKid View Post
there is always the possibility I could be wrong, has happened before, but having talked to roar on the subject that was my understanding.

good luck
well, i took a look in the rules for 2010, and there is nothing there concerning a mid motor design in short course racing. I would be kind of surprised if this was an issue as all this is really is the tranny flipped around and a counter gear added. this would be similar to the Xfactory X-6 not being ROAR legal since that is a similar mid motor design.
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Old 01-10-2010, 06:53 PM   #5
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Truck looks nice
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:11 PM   #6
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BTW, that truck does look good
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:19 PM   #7
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I am excited to get the conversion in and try it out. Right now just need to figure out how I want to go with tires as some may keep it open, others limit it to treaded tires.
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:30 PM   #8
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Looks fantastic, once Spring comes and some of the darn snow melts, I have a XXX-T that I hope to convert to a mid-motor SCT.
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:39 PM   #9
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i thought mid-motor is in the middle of the chassis, that motor/plate just looks to be turned around from a stock slash/sc10 motor position..............bob

....
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:58 PM   #10
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I think that is just a term being used for designs like this. I hope to get some video if available and post.
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Old 01-10-2010, 08:24 PM   #11
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did they mold thier own tranny case for the extra idler gear ? why not just drill out the one side of the tranny case and flip the top shaft. its what we do with dirt oval cars.

Click the image to open in full size.

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Old 01-10-2010, 08:36 PM   #12
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no, the tranny case is the stock one still. here is a pic of the setup from one of the protocars (the MM GV2 Buggy)

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Old 01-11-2010, 04:26 AM   #13
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awesome truck champ and great idea...i have a SC10 joined with the rear of a X60 thats nearly finished....love the idea of the idler between the pinion and spur,good thinking....

best of luck with the kit
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Old 01-11-2010, 07:15 AM   #14
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definitely excited to get it in and run. I ordered some stuff for it to get it going. So probably will see it at the end of the month I am thinking.
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob1961 View Post
i thought mid-motor is in the middle of the chassis, that motor/plate just looks to be turned around from a stock slash/sc10 motor position..............bob

....
I believe mid-motor refers to the motor being mounted anywhere in front of the rear drive axles, instead of behind them, that's all.


Looks like quite an interesting set-up there. I'd love to see some more photos to check it out!
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:27 PM   #16
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Cleaned up the clutter in your thread Cain.

Sorry for the disturbance.
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Old 01-12-2010, 06:54 AM   #17
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Thanks for the cleanup.

Once it comes in i will make sure and get more pics up as I do th build.

Very excited.
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:11 AM   #18
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Got an update:

It came in!

Got it yesterday, and started the build right away.

Item came in well packaged, everything wrapped deep in bubble wrap:

Click the image to open in full size.

Here is what was in all of it:

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I am not sure if production kits will come this much assembled, but by the looks of it, should not be much to do if they don't.

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
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Now, me in my excitedness neglected to read the instructions I was sent by PSI Racing via email for the order of the build, and came up with this:

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Pretty much right on, but there is a part you will modify slightly that necessitates me removing the motor plate to do it. no big deal. removed the screws, and modified the part. (will describe later on).

Anyway, to start correctly, I went ahead and got out all the rear a-arms that I would need to modify. The kit comes with a guide so you can modify the a-arms to bolt the shocks on:

Click the image to open in full size.

I did about 8 arms this way and it worked great. PSI Racing includes the drill bit for you too! I did find that by using the end of my 2.5mm ball wrench and working the drilled hole opening a bit, it makes it easier to thread in the screw.

Moving on from this part, I went back to the tranny case to modify it. As you can see, a simple modification needed (NOTE: you are only cutting off the lip where the top screw goes through, my case looks rough around the output shaft as that is how it came, this is NOT because of a required mod for the kit!):

Click the image to open in full size.

I then proceded to bolt it on to the chassis:

Click the image to open in full size.

Now, here I would recommend doing one of the following (production instructions will most likely detail this better), you will want to put the rear a-arm assembly on the chassis first before mounting up the tranny case AND motor mount plate. If you don't, you will have a hard time getting the forward hingpin brace to hold.

Also as a recommendation if you are converting a GV2T for added security, you may want to pickup the GV2 buggy forward rear hingepin brace since that is an alloy and the stocker is plastic. I used one from a spare GV2. PSI Racings back rear hingepin brace is a pretty thick material however, and I don't expect any failures there, just alittle extra insurance.

Continuing on, as my kit was mostly assembled already, I needed to just mount up the rear tranny brace to the case with it already mounted to the chassis. PSI Racing includes a nice long screw for this as well as a spacer for it too. As I like to use 2.5mm cap head screws, I replaced the included screw with this for personal preference.

I then proceded to modify the rear bulkhead. This probably will be the most difficult, if you can actually call it that, part to modify as you need to chop off a portion of the rear bulkhead. A good rotary tool will make short work of it.

Click the image to open in full size.

I proceded then to mount everything up on the rear:

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Now, here is a part where its important to just continue building and not arm chair manufacturer the car. When I went to bolt up the rear shock tower assembly, I noticed there was a gap between the rear bulkhead and the shower tower. Initially I thought I cut the bulkhead wrong. checking the pictures from PSI Racing I received there where correct. So I proceeded with the bolting on of the shock tower and as I tightened everything down, it snugged right up:

Click the image to open in full size.

So with that done, was time to move to the front end of the car. I went ahead and assembled the front end and used the stock bumper as well as wasn't sure on this step (production instructions probably mention this ). I then mounted up the front bumper brace piece with the thread rods:

Click the image to open in full size.

This bolted on fine as well, and appears to be a thick piece of material similar to Delrin.

Now, during assembly of the front end to the chassis, make sure that you have no binding in the steering. Initially I was getting slight binding that wasn't prevalent when not assembled. I took a look and the steering arm lower part was touching the chassis slightly causing the binding. A quick dremel touch, or, let it work in and the binding will go away. WIth this conversion, you also get the benefit of maximum steering through which was problematic on the GV2T with mods.

And now we are all done!

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by Cain; 03-11-2010 at 07:17 AM.
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:51 AM   #19
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that does appear to be one sweet setup

Really not that much part reworking involved.
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:00 AM   #20
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yeah, the build was excellent, very happy with it. Excited to try it out this saturday.
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