arrma fury

[dezert runnerz]

After taking a look at some durango 2wd buggy arms i think they might fit the fury

[RC_Tomato]

Lemme know if they fit. Im always interested in any mods to make on the Fury. That being said though, i havent had any issues with the stock arms. They seem pretty strong and light, I just wish they had more adjustability.
Now what would really help would be some replacement shock towers with more adjustability for shock positions. I tried to see if I could rig some rpm shock towers to fit the Fury but I came up way short.

[dezert runnerz]

Well they didnt have the arms at my lhs, although after i talked to the owner at big dog hobbies (mt. Vernon ohio) he said he was ordering some hpi blitz diffs. Im putting one in the granite and once i gather some more cash i'll swap one in my fury

[RC_Tomato]

Originally Posted by dezert runnerz

Well they didnt have the arms at my lhs, although after i talked to the owner at big dog hobbies (mt. Vernon ohio) he said he was ordering some hpi blitz diffs. Im putting one in the granite and once i gather some more cash i'll swap one in my fury

Hey bro,
Get a few bags of these.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...02mm-Washer-10

You will need them to shim the HPI diff into the Arrma tranny case. Otherwise it slides left-right a bit.

[dezert runnerz]

Im aware of shiming the diff, is their any noticable difference after installing the diff?

[Kregger]

I'm going to say the the HPI should be more durable. Did HPI ever fix the drive cup problem they had when the Blitz first came out?

Something else I noticed (bit me in the butt last night racing becasue I was to lazy to do both sides.). The ball cups on the steering link connecting to the knuckle continue to pop off. Simple fix I just used captured ball cups for a fix. It's something you might wantt to consider in you run indoors.

[Kregger]

Hey Tomato
Do you race at R/C Excitment?

[dezert runnerz]

Track conditions at the local private track were poor, decided to have some fun ;)

[RC_Tomato]

Originally Posted by Kregger

Hey Tomato
Do you race at R/C Excitment?

hey K-
yes I do race at RC Excitement. Love it there! I got back into RC a few months ago. I was big into on-road RC racing back in the mid-90s (in HS), but quit racing cuz NiCad batteries were so frustrating. God bless LiPos.

where you do you race?

[RC_Tomato]

Originally Posted by dezert runnerz

Im aware of shiming the diff, is their any noticable difference after installing the diff?

nope, no noticeable difference. the HPI or MIP-blitz diffs fit perfectly, just need a little side-to-side shimming. actually the Arrma diff is all-metal, which is heavy and I think having a non-metal diff is just fine (and lighter).

[RC_Tomato]

Originally Posted by Kregger

I'm going to say the the HPI should be more durable. Did HPI ever fix the drive cup problem they had when the Blitz first came out?

Something else I noticed (bit me in the butt last night racing becasue I was to lazy to do both sides.). The ball cups on the steering link connecting to the knuckle continue to pop off. Simple fix I just used captured ball cups for a fix. It's something you might wantt to consider in you run indoors.

I am not aware of such issue with the HPI diff, but I believe you of course. All is know is I've put at least 20 battery packs through my Fury (including with the current 10.5T brushless motor), and the diff still feels silky smooth. So needless to say I'm content with the HPI replacement diff.

With regards to the ball studs, I totally agree the arrma ones just pop off too easily. i swapped them over to captured ends with some Traxxas materials and haven't had an issue yet. The stock Arrma tie rods themselves are OK but I bent one, so I have since replacement them with some lunsford rods. I'm eager to get some dubro ball ends since I hear they are so nice (they're on my wish list!).

[Kregger]

The ball cup problem was early on. If you've run 20 packs through it and haven't seen anything I'd say its been fixed. I'm impressed that you bent a tie rod. I'm afraid to ask what you hit.

I race at Island Raceway and Hobby on Long Island New York. I've been to excitement a couple of times for the j concepts race and the shortcourse showdown. Awsome place.

What kind of setup are you running?

[RC_Tomato]

Originally Posted by Kregger

The ball cup problem was early on. If you've run 20 packs through it and haven't seen anything I'd say its been fixed. I'm impressed that you bent a tie rod. I'm afraid to ask what you hit.

I race at Island Raceway and Hobby on Long Island New York. I've been to excitement a couple of times for the j concepts race and the shortcourse showdown. Awsome place.

What kind of setup are you running?

sorry maybe i wasn't too clear in my last post. i was popping the ball ends off like crazy, so i swapped out the steering links to captured tie-rods. this fixed the problem. and actually i think i landed sideways on a jump, which bent the tierod. it didn't get bend horribly but it was visibly noticeable.

for racing, I use my arrma fury in the Mod 2WD class, which I don't race terribly often, just once-in-awhile. I think it's a great truck for mod because it has plenty of rear traction so it can put down the power well (unlike some of the other 2WD SCTs).
For setup, I am running an MMP with ext BEC, Orion 10.5 brushless motor, savox 1258tg servo, Ford raptor SVT body. I typically use some 25C Onxy 2S packs, which work just fine. I save my 65C C stuff more for 17.5 spec class where the higher-C is needed more.
i made some mods to the chassis setup but the major thing was going up on the antisquat to ~3deg. this helped get the power down even better coming out of the turns...the car doesn't slide at all now. when people see it going around the track I've had a few people assume it's a 4WD. haha.

how about you what's your setup?

[wyd]

A guy on RC Tech has a killer Arma Fury with minimal investment. He listed what he has done to it. Just go to the last page of the thread. It looks great.

[Kregger]

For a set-up I run Red losi big bore springs on the front with slash front shock and 60Wt. oil. no spacers and on the inside hole.

In the rear I run Losi 2.5 green spring with 45-50 wt oil and the stock shocks. I space it until arms are level. and the inside hole on the arms.

I dremeled the front rear toe block a bit so I could add a shim and increase the anti-squat.
The battery I run is an orion 5400 that is pushed almost all the way to the front.

I run a 17.5 ballsitic took out the reciever box out put the speedo to the rear and the reciever in front.

It's a weird set-up I admit but it works for me.

[RC_Tomato]

Originally Posted by Kregger

For a set-up I run Red losi big bore springs on the front with slash front shock and 60Wt. oil. no spacers and on the inside hole.

In the rear I run Losi 2.5 green spring with 45-50 wt oil and the stock shocks. I space it until arms are level. and the inside hole on the arms.

I dremeled the front toe block a bit so I could add a shim and increase the anti-squat.
The battery I run is an orion 5400 that is pushed almost all the way to the front.

I run a 17.5 ballsitic took out the reciever box out put the speedo to the rear and the reciever in front.

It's a weird set-up I admit but it works for me.

Antisquat describes the rear, not front. So you mean you increased the caster? I feel like the stock setup is somewhere around 30 just by eyeballing it. I went up on the antisquat too, which helped th on-power stability a bit.

[Kregger]

oops.

I meant to say that I did the front rear toe block. If that makes sense.

[dezert runnerz]

Finally got it dialed in for now. I have blue rpm ball cups and traxxas slash springs. Orange rate in back and blue in front (not sure of %) running 40wt oil all around. I personally like this set up but if anyone else has sugestions let me hear them! :)

[RC_Tomato]

Are you running the stock shocks? I wasn't too happy with them, mostly cuz they leaked and setting preload was annoying.
I 40wt on outdoor track with bigger jumps. on our indoor track I run 30 wt all around, which is probably a bit on the soft side but it doesn't bottom-out ever, so it's OK.
Overall I have found that the front shock oil is pretty important in terms of controlling how much steering I need. If I move the front shocks to the inner arm hole (to minimize leverage on the arm) or thin up the oil, it gives it much more turning. the downside though is that it loses dampening.

dezert runnerz, are you noticing any understeer with your Fury? what type of track you running it on? tight or more open? fast or more short-straights?

[dezert runnerz]

The stock shocks have been fine with me, i used rpm spring cups to hold the slash shocks. I run on a large open track with big berms and mostly roll-overs. I have a little understeer but only when im not drifting haha ;) thats why i have the front stiff simply because of my driving style